Tag Archives: cooking

Comfort food

Cheesy pasta with red chard

It is late on a Sunday evening and the weekend is coming to a close in a way that I like. I have just deposited in the oven the red chard pasta dish with cream and Parmesan pictured here, next to the cinnamon breakfast loaf that my older son whipped up for the week ahead. Both are due to come out of the oven in about ten minutes.

This weekend I fell on the ice, we fixed up our hoop house after a bout of apparent mild vandalism, my husband and I fit in a long work meeting and I plodded through our finances for our little company’s year end, but we also fit in many chapters of our family book, made a crazy outing for doughnuts, and enjoyed some good moments together, with lots of laughter.

My kitchen is in chaos as we’re having some work done, and I’m staring down another busy week, but I’ve got comfort food. Here’s hoping you do too, whatever you’re doing.

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Filed under Cooking and baking, Family, Farm life, Growing food, Modern life

Velvety fennel and kabocha squash soup

I really had no idea how good this soup was going to be. Let’s call it a happy accident. It started with a meander through the fridge and the vague knowledge that I had some fennel floating around, and a desire to make a healthy but delicious soup.

Chopped leek, garlic and fennel in a soup pot

I literally started by chopping up a leek, adding some garlic and getting things going in the pan while I chopped up the fennel and considered my options. My a-ha moment led me to the chopped kabocha squash in the freezer; I was so glad to have suffered at the hands of that squash when I realized I had just the right amount ready to go.

Into the pot it went, along with a chopped carrot, some bay leaves, turmeric, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Squash, fennel and leek with spices in a soup pot

This was the critical moment. It was time to add water or stock and my mind ran through my options. Suddenly I remembered that just a few weeks ago I had made and frozen a batch of vegetable stock whose primary ingredient was…you guessed it, fennel! I’d smiled at myself at the time, wondering when I’d be making a soup in which I could use a vegetable stock with such a distinctive flavour. Bingo!

Once the stock was in the pot, I let it build up to a gentle boil (this was cooked on top of our woodstove) and kept it there for about 15 or 20 minutes. Then it was time for the immersion blender, a bit of lemon juice, some milk, and the soup was done. It was absolutely delicious, so full of flavour, subtle yet nicely distinctive. My husband raved about it, for what that’s worth!

Fennel and kabocha squash soup in a bowl

It’s not hard to imagine this soup being successful with another type of squash, such as butternut, and I’m sure a more typical vegetable stock would work fine. My fennel-based stock pushed it up and over the edge, I think, but I’ll certainly try it again without it. Here’s the recipe:

Velvety fennel and kabocha squash soup
1 leek, sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 carrot, chopped
1 head fennel, chopped
1/2 kabocha or butternut squash (approx. 2 cups)
2 bay leaves
4 cups vegetable stock
1 tbs turmeric
1 tsp ground nutmeg
Salt, pepper to taste
1 tbs lemon juice
1/2 cup milk or cream (plain yogurt should also work)

Step 1 – saute leek, garlic and fennel in small amount of olive oil

Step 2 – add squash, carrot, bay leaves and spices and saute until nicely browned

Step 3 – add vegetable stock, bring to a boil and cook for 15 to 20 minutes or until squash has softened

Step 4 – use an immersion blender to create a puree

Step 5 – stir in lemon juice; once incorporated fully, add milk or cream

Step 6 – serve

The success of this soup was doubly gratifying as the last time I made a cream-based squash soup I failed miserbly (I don’t want to talk about it). Hope you might enjoy it as much as I did.

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Filed under Cooking and baking, Esse woodstove, Local food

Temperature ranges for the Esse Ironheart woodstove

Esse Ironheart temperature dial with ranges marked for ovenbox

To the handful of loyal readers that I have for posts about our Esse Ironheart, I do apologize – this temperature chart has been longer in coming than expected. My husband actually made it up a good month ago, now, but I just haven’t got around to sharing it.

As noted in the photo, the Ironheart comes with a simple temperature dial for the ovenbox that simply lists Cool, Mod, Hot and Very Hot, which of course is terribly broad. Our early attempts to cook and bake in the Ironheart were mostly successful, but baking – where consistent, specified heat is crucial – was definitely more challenging. The blackened tops of my two banana bread loaves below occurred before we got around to purchasing (for a mere six dollars or so) an oven thermometer.

Two loaves of banana bread with burned tops baked in a woodstove

To get the ranges (in Fahrenheit) on the dial above, my husband built a fire one day and then sat in front of it for a good hour or more. He would open the ovenbox door at intervals to check the temperature and note it down, in direct correspondence with where the needle was pointing on the dial on the exterior of the stove. He did this until he got to 400 degrees, rather than the top end of the Very Hot range on the dial, but it’s fairly easy to shade that in.

The resulting temperatures certainly accord with our experience of cooking and baking with the Ironheart; there were no huge surprises here, but it has given us precise levels to aim for when we’re planning to cook a meal or do a batch of baking in the woodstove. Before I was always guessing about when the ovenbox would be hot enough to bake in; now I know for sure.

Overall, we’re using the Ironheart for food preparation a fair amount, but it’s quite changeable at the moment. I’m not the most routine cook at the best of times (I have a whole post in my head about being a ‘moody cook’), so a good deal of that is down to me. I’m very frequently inspired to cook and bake, but that inspiration and the related energy required comes at different times of day (and sometimes different times of the week, when I’m feeling low in my energy reserves). The related challenge is that we don’t want to keep the house too hot into the evening, towards the end of the day, and that can make cooking supper on the Ironheart harder to do. We’ve done a whole lot of breakfasts, lunches and teatime meals on the Ironheart, but not a lot for suppertime and it’s for this very reason. Our house, being concrete, stays very warm once the Ironheart has had a good run during the day, and bringing the woodstove back up to cooking heat late in the day isn’t appealing. (Incidentally, we find that if we let the Ironheart die down by early evening, with no additional heat whatsoever, our house is still between 17 and 19 degrees Celsius in the morning when we get up, and this is with outside temperatures ranging from just a few degrees above zero to as low as minus 20.)

I really love cooking on top of the Ironheart as well, and find that something I really love doing is taking a stove-top recipe for a stew of some kind, starting it off on top for browning and flavouring, but then sliding it into the oven to let it cook more slowly until it’s ready. It becomes something of a wood-fired slowcooker then, and I find that works well. To get the Ironheart hot enough to boil water, the firebox gets mighty hot, and one day recently my husband called over to me and said “your skirt is smoking!” I had forgotten to pull the safety screen across and my denim skirt was in fact smoking. Phew!

The big take-away from this for us is that it makes sense for us to maximize the cooking and baking that we do in the first half of the day, when we’re happy to have the Ironheart’s heat at its most intense, and I’m certainly going to need to bend my habits more in that direction. Being based at home for our work, we have the luxury of doing this. (Though it will be hard to change the fact that I’m prone to baking late in the evening, as I’m doing right now – a traditional gingerbread cake has just come out of my electric oven.)

I think our baking efforts will also become more refined as we continue to refine our firebuilding technique in the Ironheart. My husband has been gradually mastering the best types of fire to build for long, slow burns and for controlling intensity (a whole other post once I can interview him properly). He has done this with a focus on controlling temperature in our home (and trying to get the heat produced down to our lower level), but it will also benefit his own breadmaking!

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Filed under Cooking and baking, Esse woodstove, Greening homes

White fish in puff pastry

Puff pastry with haddock and green beans

We eat fish quite regularly and often pair it with potatoes in one form or another; I was getting seriously bored of this pairing recently when I turned to puff pastry. I’ve been having a bit of a fling with puff pastry since the summer, when I started pairing it frequently with berries for a fast and tasty dessert. Part of me kept wondering about the savoury possibilities and then I hit on the idea of a fish and puff pastry combo one evening when I was trawling my cookbooks for ideas.

It was the Aussie chef Bill Granger whose fish pie recipe in Bill’s Basics gave me the start I needed: mixing white fish (haddock, in my case) with fresh ginger and leeks. Here’s what I came up with:

Puff pastry (2 squares of pre-made or from scratch dough)
2 fillets haddock
1 tbs olive oil
2 tbs butter
1 leek
2 tbs fresh ginger, grated
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup white wine
1/4 cup plain yogurt (cream would be a nice substitution)
Freshly ground pepper
1 egg (for glazing)
Sea salt
Optional: handful of green beans

Step 1 – prepare or defrost puff pastry sheets

Step 2 – saute leek, ginger and garlic in olive oil and butter over medium heat until leek becomes gently browned and softened

Step 3 – cut fish into rough pieces and toss into saute pan, stirring quickly to incorporate (add green beans now if using)

Step 4 – add wine and cook down for a minute or two

Step 5 – add yogurt and season with salt and pepper

Step 6 – heap fish mixture into centre of puff pastry sheets on a baking sheet; fold puff pastry around the mixture, brush with beaten egg and sprinkle with course sea salt

Step 7 – bake in a preheated 375 degree oven for approximately 25 minutes

Haddock in puff pastry

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Apple Marmalade

I’m going to coast on last weekend’s accomplishments as I need to get caught up. After my first successful batch of preserving green tomato and apple chutney, I was really fired up. The mystery taken out of the canning process for me, finally, I kept going on Monday night and whipped up a batch of apple marmalade, which is absolutely lovely. I have to say I was knackered by the end of Monday night, having spent two consecutive days doing a lot of standing and tending in the kitchen, but it was worth it. And that second batch was a doddle compared to the first, thanks to the demystifying, which was entirely down to Mary Ann Dragan’s Well Preserved: Small Batch Preserving for the New Cook.

How gorgeous is this?

Apple Marmalade

Dragan’s excellent instructions even resulted in the perfect “gel” stage my first time attempting marmalade!

My one quibble with Dragan’s book is that she tends to refer the reader/cook back to the canning instructions included by the manufacturer of the jars, but my new jars came without any such instructions. I see now that the manufacturer, Bernardin, has great info on their website, but there was nothing in, on or around the box! Anyway, the info in Dragan’s book was really very good and I felt more than equipped with common sense by the time it came to deal with the jars in the process.

Since making our big move out here there have been many firsts for me, among them pastry and canning, and in both cases I had allowed fear and apprehension to keep me from trying them for years. No more fear here!

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Filed under Farm life, Growing food, Local food